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We have a winner in the LED headlight conversion contest! It will please some beyond all reason, and for some reason it will displease others. If you've been following my posts, you already know this was not to be a plug and play project. Having found a LED lamp that physically fit the confines of the headlight assembly without major butchering, and the clip with an opening large enough to hold it in place securely, there was the issue of the canbus warning indicators. The good news is that the canbus is "dumb" (at least for the bulb out indicator). By this I mean there is no mysterious digital code involved in sensing that one of the H7 is burned out. Rather the circuit simply expects to see a predetermined electrical load that signals everything is well. The standard H7 halogen draws about 4 amps. Unfortunately, depending upon how you view efficiency, a 55 watt LED replacement pulls only about 1.8 amps...not a sufficient load to pass its "lamp out" warning. Now, so you know, I tested a slew of those "canbus error correctors". Most did nothing at all. A rare few actually extinguished the warning successfully. HOWEVER, and this is a big however, they accomplished this task only by generating a plastic melting amount of heat. I'm not talking about those little gold resistors either, these were major brand black boxes with capacitors and coils inside. Having worked so hard to get temps below 50C inside he headlight assembly, I was not about to allow something running 150C outside of it. Keep in mind, all we were really doing is replacing the missing [2.2 amp] electrical load on the circuit for each of the H7 lamps replaced. But all the adaptors were doing was trading that for toaster quality heat. What a total waste of energy! We want more light, and the fact that LED make more light out of the energy provided should not be traded for heat to be dumped somewhere else on the bike.
So, I started looking for other things to do with that electricity instead. Oh, and I got way out of the box on this front. A thermoelectric drink holder that would cool a beverage can, drew enough current from the headlight circuit to turn off the warning light. So did jet-turbine sound generator and amplifier-speaker system. Batman would be proud to have this accessory installed on all his machines. Heck, we're talking a couple of amps here, why just throw it away?
Then a light came on...two actually...aux lights. What if we could add outboard lights (to the low and high beam circuits) that provided sufficient load to trick the canbus into thinking the old H7's were still in place and running normally? Well, we could, and we did. Ladies and gentlemen, what I have running now are three LED "headlights". All have a low and high beam just like the main one.
All run off the same circuit and switch, so no additional boxes or wiring. All together, they provide a ridiculous amount of light that is very controllable for pattern...all while using the same amount of energy as the original worthless H7's in the headlight unit. I've been running this complete system for a couple hours now, with nary a flicker or error light. If anyone's interested in this solution to the LED conversion conundrum, please chime in. I'll post some pics shortly. Thanks, for reading about my adventure.
 
Nice out of the box (headshell) thinking! 👌

Can I assume the low beam auxiliary light solution isn't a dazzler for oncoming traffic?
 
I've finally received the kit for the LED's from LED Perf and they don't fit.

I can't maneuver the low beam bulb into the headlight housing as it has to go straight in and the fan hits the edge of the headlight housing preventing it.
The high beam bulb does seat into the housing but the fan sticks up, preventing the cover from being put back on.

Before I ordered the kit, I emailed them expressly to make sure this was a plug and play deal, they assured me it was.
I made a couple of videos to show them, in case I have missed something but I doubt it.


I am waiting for their response.
(BTW, Tony is the representative at LedPerf I was emailing)
Creating an account here for the sole purpose to reply to your comment.

Fell for the exact thing as you did and I'm also dealing with Tony :-D. He now offers me a replacement but still maintains that they have tons of happy customers with exactly my brand and make motorcycle. But they can still not produce guidance for the "100% plug and play" installation.

The bulb itself fits I think but the driver, can-bus dongle or whatever it is does not fit and installation require you to modify the housing to accommodate cables running in and out. Not plug and play in my book.

But to their credit after I called them out on it the offer me a free replacement to another bulb that has everything built in, picture below. A little lower output but interesting enough to try. I can post a progress update if anyone is interested? (Running a R1200GS btw)
111683
 
Okay y'all, as promised, I've been running this combo for almost a year now, and it's still working perfectly. Keep in mind, you'll need to add the running lights in order to trick the computer into thinking there are no missing bulbs, but the completed lighting combination is stupid bright, runs cool, and just plain works. Search no further. All at Amazon!
 
Okay y'all, as promised, I've been running this combo for almost a year now, and it's still working perfectly. Keep in mind, you'll need to add the running lights in order to trick the computer into thinking there are no missing bulbs, but the completed lighting combination is stupid bright, runs cool, and just plain works. Search no further. All at Amazon!
Can you post pics of your rig? and a wiring diagram from headlight harness to the aux LED's
 
Okay y'all, as promised, I've been running this combo for almost a year now, and it's still working perfectly. Keep in mind, you'll need to add the running lights in order to trick the computer into thinking there are no missing bulbs, but the completed lighting combination is stupid bright, runs cool, and just plain works. Search no further. All at Amazon!
This is interesting - could you please let us know what bike have fitted this to and, where did you mount the auxiliary lights?
 
Aaagodman,
Thanks for the write up and this post. Just back from a 2500 mile 6 day trip and the only downfall with my RS was my headlight. I had installed a set of spots (very similar to yours actually, got to love Amazon) wired thru my Ezcan. With spots on, everything was great until I used my turn signals. I had set up the ezcan to switch off the spots when using the turn signal (I had mounted the spots close to turn signal and when in the signal is not very clear to oncoming traffic). Falling back to the crappy halogen headlight became a huge shock with the lack of light.
Just curious as the the spots have the spot / red wire, fog / yellow wire set up. Had you thought of using the fog light when on low beams and the spot light function on high beams?
I am assuming the current draw would be close enough not to trip the bulb loss function on the Canbus. Let us know your thoughts?

Has anyone else measured the current draw of their lights?

Regards
 
We have a winner in the LED headlight conversion contest! It will please some beyond all reason, and for some reason it will displease others. If you've been following my posts, you already know this was not to be a plug and play project. Having found a LED lamp that physically fit the confines of the headlight assembly without major butchering, and the clip with an opening large enough to hold it in place securely, there was the issue of the canbus warning indicators. The good news is that the canbus is "dumb" (at least for the bulb out indicator). By this I mean there is no mysterious digital code involved in sensing that one of the H7 is burned out. Rather the circuit simply expects to see a predetermined electrical load that signals everything is well. The standard H7 halogen draws about 4 amps. Unfortunately, depending upon how you view efficiency, a 55 watt LED replacement pulls only about 1.8 amps...not a sufficient load to pass its "lamp out" warning. Now, so you know, I tested a slew of those "canbus error correctors". Most did nothing at all. A rare few actually extinguished the warning successfully. HOWEVER, and this is a big however, they accomplished this task only by generating a plastic melting amount of heat. I'm not talking about those little gold resistors either, these were major brand black boxes with capacitors and coils inside. Having worked so hard to get temps below 50C inside he headlight assembly, I was not about to allow something running 150C outside of it. Keep in mind, all we were really doing is replacing the missing [2.2 amp] electrical load on the circuit for each of the H7 lamps replaced. But all the adaptors were doing was trading that for toaster quality heat. What a total waste of energy! We want more light, and the fact that LED make more light out of the energy provided should not be traded for heat to be dumped somewhere else on the bike.
So, I started looking for other things to do with that electricity instead. Oh, and I got way out of the box on this front. A thermoelectric drink holder that would cool a beverage can, drew enough current from the headlight circuit to turn off the warning light. So did jet-turbine sound generator and amplifier-speaker system. Batman would be proud to have this accessory installed on all his machines. Heck, we're talking a couple of amps here, why just throw it away?
Then a light came on...two actually...aux lights. What if we could add outboard lights (to the low and high beam circuits) that provided sufficient load to trick the canbus into thinking the old H7's were still in place and running normally? Well, we could, and we did. Ladies and gentlemen, what I have running now are three LED "headlights". All have a low and high beam just like the main one.
All run off the same circuit and switch, so no additional boxes or wiring. All together, they provide a ridiculous amount of light that is very controllable for pattern...all while using the same amount of energy as the original worthless H7's in the headlight unit. I've been running this complete system for a couple hours now, with nary a flicker or error light. If anyone's interested in this solution to the LED conversion conundrum, please chime in. I'll post some pics shortly. Thanks, for reading about my adventure.
Glad to hear that you found a solution!
 
41 - 60 of 64 Posts